We had only a couple of days in Montenegro, and maybe a distance of 100km we cycled there. Montenegro is a tiny country on the adriatic coast and was one of the former republics of Yugoslavia. It’s mostly famous for it’s great nature, most notably the mountains, still roamed by bears and wolfs. Due to the winter slowly coming to Serbia in November, and temperatures around 0°C, even in the daytime, we didn’t really know how to continue. South of Belgrade, the country is mostly mountainous and would have been even colder than what we already had in the plains of the Vojvodina (the part of Serbia north of the Danube river). But apparently, the train from Belgrade to Thessaloniki was suspended or cancelled for the time being. Fortunately, our host Slobodan had a very nice idea: To take the train from Belgrade to Montenegro. There, at the coast, the weather was supposed to be much warmer. So we did that. The train was going to the city of Bar, wich is very close to the border to Albania. So we decided to get off a station before that, in Podgorica, the capitol of Montenegro.

That way we could cycle at least a few days in there, and on the way we would also pass a couple of Spomeniks, Monuments dedicated to the victims of the two World Wars, often specifically to the local victims. The style is mostly abstract, at times surrealistic and although a lot of them were not taken care of very well, in recent years they received quite some international attention. Most famous creator of those monuments was the architect Bogdan Bogdanovic, who was also mayor of Belgrade later, before he had to flee to Vienna in the early 90s. On a flea market in Belgrade, i actually found his Autobiography in German and it was quite a nice read. He has a style to write, where he mixes in a lot of dreams and fantasies, but at the same time you learn alot about the history of Belgrade, Serbia and Yugoslavia at that time. And especially about the story behind some of his Monuments. So i can reccomend this book, if you are interested in this topic. The name in german is “Der verdammte Baumeister”.

You can also read more about these Spomeniks on this website, where there is also a map:

Mountains are never far in Montenegro. This was the view from a bridge in the capitol Podgorica.
Not a Spomenik! To be honest i don’t know who this is, but the birds are cute.
Doesn’t exactly look like a big city, right? But in the scarcely populated Montenegro, thats as big as a capitol gets.
Barutana spomenik complex, by Montenegros first female architect
Svetlana Kana Radević
In addition to the main memorial, there were a couple of smaller ones, commemorating the victims of the first Balkan War, WW1 and WW2 respectively.
Our first of many spectacular views on Lake Skadar to follow.
After walking a big circle in the night, trying to find a proper place to sleep, we settled for a space right in the village, at the water. In the morning we were greeted by this view.
This is one, not that spectacular, spomenik in the village of Rijeka Czrnojevica
The village of Rijeka Czrnojevica
Skadar Lake is really spectacular, with it’s many vulcano-like islands and the snow peaks in the background.
On this day we saw maybe 10 other people the whole day. Sweet solitude.
Over there, to announce somebody passed away, they hang papers everywhere in public. In this case they just put it over a roadsign, so we almost went into the wrong direction because of that…
The sunset view we had in the second night.
I wonder why they put the flowers in these tanks?
What a great last view 🙂
Those days i finally finnished our wind-generator. Actually thought of as a belated birthday gift to Hsiang-Hsin (her birthday is in September), it took a while till we gathered all the material along the way. In a couple of sessions, where i managed to get hold of the right tools in various places, i finally finished it in Belgrade.
Build from a old phone battery, an old CPU-fan and various other misc, this machine was supposed to charge our electronic devices through the airflow during cycling. It did. But to our dissapointment, we had to cycle a whole day for maybe 4% of phone battery. So we tried to connect the circuit to her dynamo, but the result was even more dissapointing. So for now this project is kind of put on ice, but i still hope to find a nice way to generate electricity while cycling.
The city of Bar, as seen from the “black mountains”

And thats about it. After Bar we had our first time asking strangers to camp in their garden, and were welcomed 🙂 The next day was terrible non-stop rain, but we made it to Shkodra in Albania. We needed three days to dry everything!


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s